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On her annual pilgrimage to Jamaica, Sacha decides to branch out and explore.

On her annual pilgrimage to Jamaica, Sacha decides to branch out and explore.

I have been visiting Jamaica for the past twenty years; each year I am enticed back by welcoming family and friends, the thought of two weeks in the sun, the delicious traditional spicy fare, and the Strawberry Daiquiris, oh the Daiquiris. This year we decided to branch out, move away from the traditional sights and out of our comfort zone to explore the real Jamaica, by visiting as many of islands parishes and stunning beaches that time allowed.

Flying into Montego Bay, we took the beautiful coastal route to the small resort town of Ocho Rios to spend time with family before embarking on our road trip. A straightforward drive away from Ocho Rios to begin with, on what is known locally as a ‘good road’ to the famous James Bond white sand beach Oracabessa, St Mary. From Oracabessa the ‘good roads’ disappeared and our adventure began as we navigated crazy bumps and inhospitable potholes to some idyllic little beaches, that made the whiplash (I’m exaggerating) worth the while. Tucked away down a bumpy track, behind a dilapidated gas station, was the most tranquil, pristine beach we had ever seen. Far away from the crowds of tourists, we enjoyed for a lazy afternoon in obligatory hammocks on the beach with no name, listening to the gentle lap of the sea. All this hard work made us hungry so next stop was Flavour Beach in Runaway Bay, for some steamed fresh red snapper and bami – a traditional Jamaican flatbread. Suitably refuelled we get on back on the road and arrive in Montego Bay far too relaxed; we’re caught off guard by the bustle and noise. Once acclimatised Montego Bay has such charm, with the locals speaking drawling patois, music blaring from shops and cars, and delicious smells of jerk chicken cooked off steel drums on the street.  That evening we met up with friends, enjoyed more Daiquiris, and had a late night in the city, dancing the night away.

Unsurprisingly we have slow start the next morning and we make the drive to picturesque Mandeville in the Parish of Manchester, the most "English" town in Jamaica, full of ‘returnees’. We spend some time here before driving to Negril and meander around its two parishes, Westmorland and Hanover. We find Seawind, a beautiful 29 room colonial style hotel and we check into a sea view room with a verandah that opens up onto the white sand beach.  Straight to the Seawinds beach bar we were befriended by a French Canadian Serge who plied us with Strawberry Daquiri’s and entertained us with his many stories. With so many bars and restaurants in Negril catering for tourists, we decided to go to a real Jamaican restaurant, a few doors down from fashionable Jake's.  The Sips & Bites restaurant should be made a national treasure in Jamaica. The food was the best we have ever eaten in the 20 years we have visited. The service was friendly and the menu, with curried goat, rice n peas, oxtail, brown stew chicken, yellow yam, green banana, boiled dumplings, ackee and salt fish, meant you could try every Jamaican dish under the relentless sun.

The next afternoon with sadness, we checked out of Seawind and made our way back to Ocho Rios. We didn’t get to see all we hoped but next time we will make a pit stop in Kingston and the parish of St Thomas for the mineral baths and a massage with pimento oil, apparently it gives you a new lease of life! Can’t wait.

Kate goes on Safari

Kate goes on Safari

Taking full advantage of the bank holidays over Easter weekend, Kate popped on a plane to South Africa to explore the game reserves around the Kruger National Park.

Enticed by Africa on Foot’s position in a lesser known northern Kruger reserve and their expertise in walking safaris, we ventured to Klaserie Private National Reserve for a two night stay. On our first evening we tracked a lion and lioness, taking some downtime from their exhaustive three day mating ritual, and left as the lioness eventually displayed her impatience at our prying eyes. By miracle, we immediately encountered our lions brother who was also embarking on his own three day challenge. As they lolled against one another, out of nowhere the lioness smacked the lion on the nose before retreating to longer grass. It seemed an act of defiance that the lion, instead of following her, approached our truck and satisfied our aspirations for the perfect photograph with a series of mane-swishing poses. An extremely lucky start we agreed, which gave incredible insight into lions habits, behaviour and temperament, setting the standard for the rest of our trip as we were spoilt by continuous and varied game sightings.

Wrapped up against the early morning chill and fueled by strong coffee and rusks, we approached our walking safaris with a mixture of excitement and trepidation.  Led by our ranger Ryan, the walks focussed on the ecology of the bush and animal tracks that we missed driving.  The morning after we spotted the lions, we started off as jumpy as the nervous impala that bounced from the thickets as we passed; we negotiated long grasses, prickly acacia trees and dusty tracks until we approachd a waterhole. A hippo raised his beady eyes and wide nostrils from the water to observe us. Expressing his disdain with a loud snort, he returned to his wallowing as we rested.

Five, basic but charming, thatched huts make up Africa on Foot, providing a cosy, intimate feel. The outdoor bathroom made freshening up for dinner extraordinary, as we showered whilst observing Venus, Mars, the Southern Cross and the Milky Way. One evening we spent a night away from the camp, under the stars, in an isolated, incredibly romantic, open air treehouse. Safely installed high above the reserve, the full moon illuminated the park and the air hummed with the sound of crickets, only interrupted by the calls of lions, hyenas and impala.

We spent one night at Nthamba Treehouse, Africa on Foots sister’s property. A luxury thatched affair, Nthamba Treehouse gave us far reaching views of groups of kudu to the Drakensberg Mountains on the horizon, all from our verandah or the comfort of our huge canopy bed.

The pièce de résistance was two hours south, at Savanna Private Game Reserve, part of the breathtaking Sabi Sands. Renowned for its big cat population, we had some fantastic sightings. Blown away by the unusual situation of a bold young female leopard stalking an unwilling male in attempt to mate, we dodged precarious branches as we followed them through the undergrowth, engrossed as he snarled his rejection.  The same day, hands over our faces to block the putrid smell of an unlucky Water Buffalo brought down by four male lions, we watched as they panted in the sun after gorging on their kill. All the while macabre vultures, all black suits and white collars like eerie funeral directors, sat with morbid patience in the surrounding trees, waiting for their chance to pick the bones. We learned about an ongoing saga, between these lions and four beautiful lionesses looking after the previous dominant males cubs, as our ranger predicted the sad outcome. Away from the magnificent cats, our hearts were melted by warthogs, elephants, rhinos and their tiny offspring.

The Savannah itself was a dream, incredibly welcoming with endless extras that made our stay all the more special. On our first evening we returned from a successful game drive to find our cavernous freestanding bath freshly run, piled high with bubbles, lit with candles and complemented by two glasses of slow gin. The following morning, dusty and hungry after an early morning drive we were treated to an impromptu champagne Easter breakfast on the lawn. We were in heaven throughout our stay. In traditional colonial African style, the impossible elegant Savannah compromises only 7 spacious and stylish suites each with their own private enclosed garden and some with private plunge pools. Meals are communal and taken with your ranger, the food plentiful and delicious. The lodge manager, Paddy, was also our safari guide during our stay; a Rhodesian with a history fighting against Mugabe, now provider of an infinite amount of information about the bush and wildlife gained through of 28 years as a ranger. A perfect host, we stayed up late each evening sharing stories and putting the world to rights. We left knowing we would return to a home away from home.  

Snowy Svalbard

Snowy Svalbard

In February we ventured out for an action packed five days in Norway’s most Northernmost town, Longyearbyen, just 800 miles from the North Pole in the archipelago of Svalbard. A white desert, its landscape consists of frozen lakes and rivers, vast glaciers, craggy peaks and apparently more Polar Bears than people. Throughout our stay we had excited locals urging on the promise of the first sun which seemed be hiding just over the horizon, keeping the days in a beautiful twilight before plunging into darkness at around 4pm, leaving us eager for the tell-tale wisps of Northern Lights.

We stayed in the Basecamp Spitsbergen Trappers Lodge, a beautiful rustic cabin, with friendly staff and a glass roofed Cognac Lounge perfect for Northern Light spotting. Feeling adventurous we arranged an overnight expedition to Isfjord Radio, a small lodge once a base for Norway and Sweden’s radio communications, a challenging 100km snowmobile journey from Longbearbyen.

We started early and had numerous stops along the way at self-appointed vista points over vast white valleys and shimmering silver fjords. When the wind picked up over a glacier we had a shaky moment struggling to maintain control but persevered and arrived at our accommodation feeling like snowmobile veterans.

Another excursion took us by dog sled out to icecave within a glacier. The ice cave was quite spectacular with curving paths and beautiful formations. We admired the glittering icicles that made up the ceiling along the passage and were thankful for our hardhats should our movement or noises dislodge any. The dogs, despite being vicious to one another, were incredibly soppy towards people and we left wishing we could bring one home.

If you would like to explore this spectacular region please call on 0207 359 3938 or email.

Visit to Bologna

Visit to Bologna

Austerity measures were thin on the ground in Bologna just before Christmas, or at least the mink-coated ladies and loden-coated males of a certain age hid it well if they were suffering. My first visit to the bustling capital of Emilia-Romagna had been preceded by twenty four hours in Ferrara, only an hour to the north and a real surprise to me as an unsung star of the Renaissance art cities, with its Castello Estense, Pinoteca Nazionale and some wonderful frescoes in the Palazzo Schifanoia. Well- preserved walls enclose a charming city which is a delight to walk around, made even more romantic by a local choir singing carols in the frosty evening light of the Piazza Schiatti as we headed for an indulgent dinner of traditional classic Ferrara dishes.

But then on to the main course, a fitting metaphor as we had more good meals in forty eight hours in Bologna than any other city I have visited in Italy. Our small but very comfortable hotel, the Al Capello Rosso, was perfectly placed for the centro storico, just fifty yards from the Piazza Magiore, which is flanked by imposing Renaissance palazzi and the city’s Basilica di San Petronio. But the real pleasure is wandering further off into the tangle of arcades and medieval streets where Christmas shoppers were queuing as much for home-made mortadella and perfect looking cheeses as for fashionable clothes. As one of Europe’s first university towns Bologna has that same feeling that its contemporaries like Oxford share, the buzz of youthful culture, and it was at the heart of the university quarter that we were in danger of being overwhelmed by the impressive collection of works by Tintoretto, Titian, Giotto and Carracci. It took a long Sunday lunch of red wine, tortellini and delicious Bolognese ragu to recover.

This short break certainly gave us a taste for discovering the riches of more cities in the region, and Parma and Modena are next on my list.

A quick visit to Jordan

A quick visit to Jordan

I was lucky enough to be sent on a flying visit to Jordan which was one of the best trips I’ve been on for a while. We flew into Amman quite late and transferred the 45 minutes or so to the Dead Sea where we were booked to stay two nights in the luxury Kempinski Ishtar hotel. The next morning, after realising I had a lovely sea view from my terrace, we had a morning floating in the Dead Sea before heading off to visit Mount Nebo, one of the most revered holy sites in Jordan and the place where Moses is said to be buried, and Madaba, the City of Mosaics. We then had a lovely hosted dinner at the Kempinski’s Ashur Italian restaurant before an early start to head to Petra. The early start was worth it as Petra was a magnificent sight, as you wander through the Siq, you get a small glimpses of the iconic Treasury before arriving to see it in its full glory. I was surprised how large Petra was, it isn’t just the Treasury, it is a huge sight with an amphitheatre, Royal Tombs, burial chambers and high places of sacrifice. It really warrants a whole day’s visit, more than our itinerary allowed.

We were then transferred further south to the resort of Aqaba on the Red Sea and to another five star deluxe Kempinski hotel. Again, I had a lovely sea view from my balcony, actually, all the rooms have sea views, but I still felt very spoilt. We had a morning at leisure to wander around the bazaar before heading off to Wadi Rum for an afternoon’s jeep safari and to watch the sunset over the magnificent desert landscape. After another tasty hosted dinner, this time at the Fish-In restaurant, and a few cocktails in the Black Pearl bar, we had yet another very early start to fly back to London, but at least I could sleep on the plane.

I am now looking forward to being able to go back.

Mayan Riviera

Mayan Riviera

Thanks to our friends at Caribtours, I recently had a chance to spend a week on the Yucatan peninsula, visiting quite a few hotels (so you don’t have to) and spending a couple of days exploring the Mayan ruins in Chichen Itza and Tulum.

One area I have come back particularly excited about is Mayakoba. The area has been recently developed in eco-friendly fashion, with the hotels sympathetically built amongst the mangroves, with a great beach waiting for you at the eastern end of the properties. The hotels are all spread over two sections, with one area the home of the reception area, along with restaurants, pools and spa, whilst the beach areas are generally much more lightly occupied, with fewer rooms, and often just one restaurant and pool, right by the beach. Eco tours around the resorts are quite possible, and encouraged, with plenty of iguanas and bird life to spot, along with the odd small crocodile. There are three hotels in the area, at least one of which should appeal to you.

The Banyan Tree is well known within Asia for it’s hyper-stylish spa resorts, but the Mayakoba property is their first outside of Asia. The rooms are a wonderful fusion of Asian and Mexican influences, and look absolutely stunning. As ever with their properties, there is also an incredibly beautiful spa and a great selection of restaurants

My personal favourite was the Rosewood, with beautiful contemporary décor throughout, wonderfully large rooms, many with their own private pools, and wonderful food. It’s a perfect place for either couples or families, with all rooms having a great view of either the waterways surrounding the resort, or the beautiful beach.

The third property is the most affordable of the three, with the Fairmont also being the largest property. I know many people immediately reject large American chains, but this would be a mistake in this case. The rooms are individual bungalows for the most part, giving you plenty of space, and feeling as far removed from the stereotype of volleyball games in the pool as it is possible to be. With beaches as good as anything you’ll find elsewhere in the Caribbean, and with the cultural interest of the nearby Mayan site, this is somewhere I’ll certainly be sending some of you next year.

That Florida feeling...

That Florida feeling...

After finding myself with a week free in November and not a single thing booked (terrible I know as a travel agent) we decided on a week in Miami and the Florida Keys. With a direct flight into Miami, talk of 28c sunny days and a chance to spend a week cruising down Ocean drive in a mustang convertible, how could we refuse.

Initially we were quite keen on spending the entire week in Miami but the lure of a mustang was too much for my partner who simply jumped at the chance of driving to Key West, the drive from Miami takes about 3 ½ hours and you pass over a 7 mile bridge which is pretty amazing, there is just a mass of beautiful ocean either side of you and we did feel that we were just driving through the sea at times.

Although the drive is quite short I would certainly recommend breaking up the journey by spending a few hours in Key Largo and Islamorada, there are some lovely small beaches and villages here and you get a real feel for the American way of life on the Keys, its very relaxed and takes on an almost ‘manana’ style.

We stayed in a beautiful hotel called the Parrot Key Hotel which is about a ten minute drive from the main centre of Key West or about a 30 minute walk (thoroughly recommend for an evening stroll), unlike most American states people here do walk and cycle which is really refreshing to see and as the island is quite small (six miles square) it’s easy to see why.

Life in Key West is very relaxed with the emphasis on having fun, this can be found in plenty on the main Duval street which is like a teeny tiny Vegas, great fun and perfect for getting anyone in the holiday mood.

There are heaps of tours available that will show you around the old town by tram or bus but personally I think the best way to explore is by foot, it’s a very small place and there are so many beautiful colonial style houses and churches that can be found by just walking outside of the tourist circle that it’s definitely worth it.

There are a few main points of interest like Ernest Hemingways house where the brick wall outside the house was actually said to be built by Hemingway himself when he was not writing, it is said that his writing got in the way of his main hobby drinking but the wall is still standing after all these years. There is also the Fort Zachary Taylor which is great for escaping the busy streets of the centre, you can walk around the fort and then spend time relaxing on the beach watching the sunset, bliss.

After a few days in Key West we drove back to Miami via the Bahia National State Park, this is a beautiful National Park with a couple of stunning white sandy beaches (Calusa is the smallest and the quietest when we were there) and as you can swim from the beach it’s a lovely place to spend a few hours with a picnic, we spent about 1 ½ hours here just before dusk and it was really peaceful. There are also three walking trails that can be done if you are feeling a bit energetic and the southwest trail near Calusa beach actually takes you up to the old Bahia Honda Bridge which can still be seen.

We arrived into Miami quite late so checked into our hotel which was the St Augustine on Washington Avenue, this was a great location as it was 2 blocks from the beach and the famous Ocean Drive which is pretty much open 24-7. We decided to venture out and soak up the atmosphere by spending a few hours in a place called the News Café which is open 24 hours a day and is perfect for people watching, they also serve up a mean whiskey sour.

Miami is known for its beaches and when the sun is shining this is by far the best place to be seen, the main beach is South beach just off the Ocean Drive and is a glorious sweep of white sand, pastel coloured lifeguard huts and bronzed beauties (with the odd fleck of a pale tourist), it does get busy and is one of the main tourist hot spots but its got a great vibe and is great for soaking up the atmosphere.

Miami is also known for its art deco buildings and it doesn’t disappoint, the main walk from Ocean drive along Collins Avenue is full of these lovely features and such hotels like the Delano and the Raleigh are worth popping into for lunch or an afternoon aperitif to fully appreciate the décor.

After a few days here you do fall into a routine of sleeping late, lazing around on the beach and then a gentle stroll back to your hotel before a night out in one of the many restaurants and bars, its pure self indulgence and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. It’s not exactly the most cultural holiday we have been on but if you are after a week away in the sun to relax and maybe a spot of shopping in between Miami and the Keys is perfect.

Tales from Nepal

Tales from Nepal


As a relatively seasoned traveller around Asia, I wasn’t expecting Kathmandu to be such an assault on the senses. It seems my romantic anticipation of cobbled narrow streets and an overall aura of calm in one of most spiritual cities in the world was a colossal misconception. The pollution warrants wearing a face mask in a fairly vain attempt to cut down on the vast amount of fumes you intake. There is the sheer amount of people, buses overspilling blaring music, cars farting out black smoke, and tuk tuks careering around packed roads squeezing into said cobbled narrow streets. All accompanied by the incessant sounding of car horns, authentic and those from the rickshaws fashioned from old water bottles warning the Nepali pedestrians from their seemingly oblivious strolls and rousing the occasional indifferent cow.  It was every other Asian city I visited condensed, on steroids, and it was wonderful. Amongst all the craziness were the smiling, ever friendly and continually welcoming Nepalese ready to talk, ask where you’re from and share stories of their friends in London and where they have travelled.

Nestled in the shadow of the Himalayan Mountain Range and away from the commotion of Kathmandu, Nepal is a country for the active; keen trekkers, adventurers, photographers and those who love the outdoors and its once you leave the hubbub of Kathmandu that its really possible to see the real Nepal. Our experience began as we left on a single lane unguarded mountain road desperately eyeing the sheer drops into the river we would soon be white water rafting down, I decided ignorance is bliss, swore never to sit at the front of the minibus, popped my ipod on and took in the spectacular scenery.

An hour or so later we were loaded into robust dinghies and were given strict instructions of what to do should we be plunged into the rather imposing body of choppy water we had been eyeing suspiciously for the last couple of hours from our minibus. After a precarious start where we all clung on through the waves and paddled for dear life, we then began to get into the rhythm of the river and enjoy ourselves. Cutting through the Mahabharat Range the Trisuli River is flanked by steep and verdant mountains and made for a beautiful journey at the times that the river was calm, passing under the occasional flimsy rope bridge and waving at passing villagers.

After the rafting we wound along more mountain passes to Bandipur Mountain Lodge for the evening. Set at 1030m above sea level the village of Bandipur a beautifully and well preserved historical village with paved square and buildings set around adorned with shuttered windows and a neoclassical facade. Our next stop was the tourist stop of Pokhara, with its long strip of shops selling Yak wool jumpers and scarves, a fantastic selection of knock off North Face products, pashminas and the usual stock of DVD’s. While the town is pleasant to meander through, to sit and enjoy an ‘Everest’ and watch the world go by, the beauty here is the surroundings as the city is only a short distance from the Annapurna range with views of the ‘Fishtail’ dominating on clear days. We took a 20km cycle ride around a beautiful lake where the children held out their hands to hi-five us as we cycled through villages with names such as ‘Happy Village’.

From Pokhara we began our 2000m climb of the Annapurna ranges. Our trail was described as leisurely to moderate; a rating that we found that like beauty is very much in the eye of the beholder. We began our climb in the blistering heat and were thankful when the heavens opened and drenched us just as the climb started to get really tough. Fairly consistently in Nepal, there will be exclamations regarding the scenery and it was this that kept us all going as the higher we got the more impressive the views became. Miles and miles of lush green rice paddies lined the sides of the mountains, a sight I shall never tire of seeing, we trekked through small villages, sat in tiny tea houses to replenish and regularly got bustled to the side to the walkways by armies of mules transporting goods up and down the mountains. Light-footed and inquisitive goats darted past us and the occasional water buffalo plodded by. On reaching out guesthouse in Gandruk having dodged livestock, been targeted by leeches, navigated steep and rugged terrain even the lack of hot water couldn’t suppress our triumph! That evening we gorged on the very un-nepalese Chicken Enchilada’s, chips and washed it down with Everest Beer. The following day we woke early while it was still clear to get fantastic view of the mountains and the Fishtail before beginning our hike back down and were able to fully enjoy the views.

Our final stop was Chitwan National Park where we stayed at the Safari Narayani which was a real treat as until this point most of the accommodation was fairly basic, which was fine given the activities. From the hotel we went on a Safari Walk in hope of seeing a Tiger, and came away seeing a print, and bathed elephants in the nearby river. In the afternoon once again we climbed upon an elephant and went off on Safari. We ambled through vast fields, rivers and jungles and got heart stopping close to a pair of lazy Rhinos. The perfect end to the perfect trip.

If you're feeling inspired by Nepal, please do contact us by email or call on 0207 359 3938

The Boss gets lucky in Sri Lanka

The Boss gets lucky in Sri Lanka

He was called Lucky but the good fortune was ours. Those of you who have travelled  to Sri Lanka with us will know that your relationship with your driver/guide is all important, and Lucky – a shortened form of his real Sri Lankan name, was always in good spirits, and as enthused as us by our third trip to this fascinating island.

Although we had visited the hill country before, we wanted to repeat the unique experience of staying in one of the tea planter’s bungalows. Like others of its kind, Lavender House charms by making you feel like a guest in a private home but I’m not sure that others offer such tranquillity, let alone such a wonderful view of the misty blue valleys from the lawn terrace.

Our main focus for this trip was to explore the east coast whose beaches are at their best in our summer and where there is excellent swimming, unlike the south-west where the sea is often not safe. We were staying at the Chaaya Blu at Uppaveli which was given a Mediterranean makeover with light and colour transforming the previous hotel buildings, and where the chalets enjoy a perfect view of the fishermen hauling in the catch on the beach below your balcony. Add one of the best buffet breakfasts I can think of and it isn’t easy to drag yourself away, but we really enjoyed going into the famous port and harbour town of Trincomalee with its old fort and busy, narrow lanes lined with shops. We were fortunate that we had Lucky to guide us to a liquor store for some local arack which we had taken a liking to. One of the pleasures of Trinco is the laid back atmosphere, and the sense of history enhanced by the run down colonial villas dating from the British rule of the 1800’s.

Lucky was as excited as us because he hadn’t been able to visit the area until now with the civil war at an end, and he was determined to bring his family not just here, but to war ravaged Jaffna too. Neither Sinhalese Buddhist or Hindu Tamil, he is a Christian and very committed to the apparent consensus that it is time to move on from the war, and be part of the new order and the better life it appears to promise. Not an easy assumption with all too much evidence of the unpleasant endgame to the conflict, but I would urge you to witness yourselves not just the improved tourist infrastructure, but the recovery of hope and the healing rather than tearing apart of the island’s cultural diversity.

The investment in tourism was very evident at Ulagalla Resort where we stayed in one of 16 luxury chalets on this beautifully restored country estate with acres of woodland and paddy fields. It’s in a perfect location for exploring nearby Anuradhapura and other ancient cities which you shouldn’t miss, but we were very content just to take advantage of the spa, have a go at kayaking, bird watch (a bit too early for us, he confesses) or laze by our private pool. I even managed to stop feeling guilty about ordering a golf-buggy to take us to dinner each evening. Here you gaze from your table on the former mansion’s upper floor across the lit up grounds which provided a suitably romantic backdrop to the excellent meals. 

We arrived In Sri Lanka with some sense of guilt at taking a holiday in a country where the unhealed scars of war remain, but it was impossible not to allow the warmth and friendliness of the people to overcome that feeling. At no time more so than on our final morning, when taking tea with Lucky’s family before heading to the airport left us totally charmed by what the country has to offer.

My holiday to the Pelion

My holiday to the Pelion

I have just come back from my third visit to the Pelion, but this time, it was officially a holiday, and what a lovely holiday it was! The Pelion is definitely my favourite region of Greece, the water is wonderfully clear, the sea is an incredible colour, and the towns and villages and lovely to wander through. There is nothing quite like having a swim on a near deserted beach and then having a late (and rather long) lunch at the beach side taverna, before a rest and then another swim.

We stayed in the Horto area so we could stoll into the village in the evening, and the sea views were sublime, having breakfast overlooking a lovely blue sea is quite incredible.

On the previous occasions I have visited the Pelion, it has been for work purposes to see various properties, including the villas and apartments we feature in the Pelion section on our website, but this time, I really got the chance to explore the area. We went out on a kayak for a couple of hours and stopped at beaches unreachable by land and we had a little car so we were able to visit a couple of different beaches a day and a different taverna each night. The sun shone everyday and we saw THE most amazing sunset in Milina. There are so many different beaches from rocky coves with calm sea to large sandy beaches with waves so great for a spot of body surfing. My favourite beach was somewhere in the middle, Mikro, long, sandy with a relatively calm sea, a couple of very good tavernas and beautiful clear water.

I would go back in a heart beat...

Alentejo, Portugal

Alentejo, Portugal

I have to confess that when I was offered the chance to visit the Alentejo region of Portugal, I didn’t know what to expect. The fact that the region is so unknown is part of its draw. This undiscovered gem covers around one third of Portugal, yet only 6% of the population live there. Authentic and unspoilt are the key words here, and with a new charter flight operating from Heathrow there has never been an easier way to visit.

Self drive is a great way to explore the contrasting scenery on offer – from magnificent plains and cork forests to olive groves and vineyards. Another big surprise to me was Alqueva Lake – the largest artificial lake in Europe, around the same size as Surrey – where you can take a houseboat (after some basic training) and cruise from sleepy village to village. The province’s capital is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Evora, which appears to have been frozen in time – all narrow cobbled streets, old churches and palaces. The eerie Chapel of Bones, built in the 16th century by Franciscan monks, is well worth visiting here. There are wonderful places to stay in the area too, particularly the Hotel Convento de Espinheiro – a famous monastery and national monument converted into a luxury hotel and spa. The Hotel M’ar de Ar Aqueduto, located within the city walls, is a thoroughly modern alternative.

The Alentejo is also famous for its wine production, with over 250 producers cultivating over 22,000 hectares of vineyards. The wonderful Malhadinha Nova estate, near Albernoa, is a family owned country estate and vineyard turned into a 10 room guesthouse. The surroundings lend themselves to a relaxing break away from the world, with the opportunity to hire bikes, go fishing, or simply indulge in the pool and spa before the wine tour and inevitable tastings begin. It is a stunning property and somewhere I have promised myself to return to.

After visiting numerous small and characterful towns, you can relax at the developing coastal resort of Troia with its miles of calm undiscovered beaches. This is within easy distance of Lisbon if you wanted to combine the region with a break to one of Europe’s loveliest cities.

If this sounds of interest, please call us on 020 73593938 or email to discuss putting together an itinerary to explore this undiscovered gem.

Island Time

Island Time

Such is the life of a travel agent; we just have to get out to far flung places to find the best hotels for you. It’s a tough job but someone’s got to do it. This week I ventured to Salina, a little gem of an island part of the Aeolians, tucked away north of Sicily, to visit the Hotel Signum. A delightful family run property with absolutely everything to offer. The hotel is crammed with antiques that the owner Clara has picked up over her travels around Italy and Europe which means no room is the same, and there are objects of interest dotted throughout the hotel and the spa. The style is traditional Sicilian with beautiful spaces to sit, read and take in the views of the ever smoking volcanic island of nearby Stromboli. My favourite spot was in the orchard amongst the lemons trees bursting full of fruit, glass of crisp white local island wine to hand. The outdoor spa was a fantastic experience and a great way to wile away the afternoon, with its Thermal Stove steam baths, geothermic mineral pools and the mud deck. Oh, the mud deck. We covered ourselves in thick Thalasso silt and reclined in the afternoon sun until dry before hosing ourselves down and heading to the stone Jacuzzi baths until our skin went crinkly. Another draw to the Signum is the food. Michele, the husband, with his daughter Martine handle the kitchen, and it’s renowned on the islands for the high standard of food offered. Surpassing the traditional trattoria cuisine, they use local ingredients to the island and Sicily and give them a modern twist, and when accompanied by an impressive wine list and the friendly, helpful service, makes for quite an evening.

Please have a look at all our properties in Sicily and please email or call us on 020 73593938 to discuss your perfect holiday to Sicily and its islands.

Kerala April 2011

Kerala April 2011

I’d been itching to visit Kerala for as long as I can remember, and jumped at the chance last month to escape to tropical shores and road test the services of our ground operator and accommodation in the region.

First stop was the tea plantations of Munnar, reached via a lengthy, twisty and scenic drive from Cochin. High in the hills at the delightful home stay Casa Del Fauno, we were able to relax and enjoy the panoramic views and laidback hospitality of this working cardamom plantation.

A couple of nights, visit to the tea museum and plenty of cardamom tea later, we were driven in air conditioned comfort to Periyar National Park, a large nature reserve high in the western Ghats close to the Tamil Nadu border. Wildlife sightings of note can be sporadic at best, but our local jungle trek guide managed to locate some wild elephants for us. Seeing these majestic creatures in their natural habitat ensured we went home happy (and made me feel reasonably smug having also managed to glimpse tigers in Ranthambore on my last trip to the subcontinent.)

The Kerala Backwaters are the image most people have in their mind when thinking of South India, and arriving at these fabled shores and crossing by local ‘vallam’ to  the island home stay of Philipkutty’s Farm, is something that will linger long in the memory. We have sent many guests here in the past to a rapturous response, and it is easy to see why. From the magical backwaters setting on a working farm, to the individually crafted antique styling of the villas, to the sumptuous (and seemingly endless) home cooked meals, to the attention to detail and service of Anu and her team – it is a triumph on every level. One night was simply a tease.

A day and night on a houseboat cruising the backwaters around Vembanad Lake, armed only with your private onboard chef and the sort of scenery you think only exists in coffee table travel books, is simply a must if you are in the region and certainly did not disappoint.

Next stop was the extremely laid back Fort Cochin, a mix of historic colonial buildings, elegant cafes and those fabled Chinese fishing nets. While you can visit the Dutch Palace, Synagogue and glimpse Vasco de Gama’s original resting place at St.Francis’ Church, I found leisurely ambling through the side streets and taking exotic tea or visiting one of the local galleries to be more of a part of Cochin’s appeal. A stay at the Old Harbour Hotel, part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World and just moments from the fishing nets, is highly recommended for a tranquil oasis of calm and understated elegance.

After being seen to the station and waving goodbye to our driver and weeklong travelling companion, Babu, a full day’s train journey north to the Relais & Chateaux property of Neeleshwar Hermitage awaited us to round things off in some style. This beach property is in a still developing area a couple of hours south of Mangalore, and the fact that it is somewhat of an effort to reach I feel is part of the appeal. The Arabian Sea and un-manicured beach which lay beyond the superb infinity pool grabbed my attention from the moment I arrived, at the expense of the extensive ayurvedic treatments on offer. Food connoisseurs will also be in heaven, as the fresh seafood served at the beach restaurant was among the best I have ever tasted.

With such contrasting experiences and scenery on offer, as well as phenomenally enchanting and unique plays to stay, Kerala truly earns its title ‘God’s Own Country’.

The magic of the Arctic

The magic of the Arctic

I’ve just floated in from a rather magical trip to the Arctic Circle. One on the list I have always wanted to visit, but had never been able to instil much enthusiasm within friends and family to accompany me, so when I got offered a opportunity to visit the ICEHOTEL in Northern Sweden I jumped at it. All the anticipation and excitement paid off, it was spectacular. The sheer amount of work put into designing, building and maintaining it is alone amazing. To have a hotel made entirely of ice (or snice) is ground breaking and a must see in its own right. And then you witness the ‘Art Suites’. Every June the ICEHOTEL holds a competition to design a room that will feature in the ICEHOTEL. The results are diverse, inventive and just so clever. From Polar Bears guarding your bed (which might be slightly terrifying if you forgot where you were in the night), to playing with the idea of walking into a fridge and having a giant milk carton, cheese and eggs stacked around your bed, the designs are just brilliant. Once you have mastered your snow suit, marvelled at the Art Suites and taken maybe a hundred photographs around the hotel, the focus while you stay at the ICEHOTEL is the activities. The Wilderness Snowmobile Safari that I took was by far the highlight, and being a bit of a speed demon it was exhilarating hammering it over frozen lakes and through the forests. The dog sledding was more relaxed and the excursion to venture out with the huskies to spend overnight in a wilderness lodge with no electricity and lit entirely by candles is an incredibly special experience and would be ideal for Honeymoon couple, families or large groups. The Ice sculpting had fantastic reviews, and the Moose Safari by horseback, although the people I spoke to were unlucky in the actual spotting of the moose’s, by all accounts being out in the wild without the roar of snowmobiles or manic barking from the huskies, the quiet was highly rated. The food at the Ice Restaurant was divine. Try the tasting platter. Uncanny how the hot food is served on ice plates.

As I learnt at the ICEHOTEL, the Northern lights have a cycle which peaks next year, making it the best time to see them and visit this region. This cycle also meant the chances to see them this year were incredible. Although I travelled telling myself that it is a natural phenomenon and I would therefore be incredibly fortunate to see them, I knew there would be an inkling of disappointment if we did miss them. So, when I saw a thin green streak across the sky on the first night, I didn’t want to read too much into it. Within 5 minutes the sky was lit up with green and yellow lights, moving, expanding, and dancing with varying levels of luminosity. It lit up and transformed the sky for around 15 minutes. An emotional traveller, I welled up a little bit, (as I did at Taj Mahal, Table Mountain, Masai Mara, the list goes on) and counted myself to be a very lucky girl.

New Year in South Africa

New Year in South Africa

With some time off over Christmas and New Year, I decided to escape the grey remains of the London slush and take myself off to sunny South Africa to join my partner and his family on an amazing trip through the mountains and farms of rural inland life. I arrived into George, a little town on the Garden Route and we set off North in a 4 by 4 convoy towards the Karoo National Park. We drove mountain passes winding into more epic mountain passes, shrouded by thick white clouds leaving us unable to see over the edge of the road, before clearing once we hit flat land to show vast fields of crops, with a smattering of farm buildings and sheep occasionally breaking up corn coloured views.

We spent a couple of nights staying in an open air cave high up in the mountains which was the most breathtaking experience. With bedrooms portioned off for privacy, a Braai (BBQ) area and miraculously a hot water shower open to the elements and beautiful views, we woke up to fresh air and baboon calls each morning.

For New Years we camped on a tiny campsite, I struggled with understanding the Afrikaans that surrounded  me, we drank Verve Cliquot and ate chicken off a Braai under the Southern Cross and vast skies. During the day we embarked on 4 wheel drives over rocky terrain and rivers overflowing roads spotting Kudu, Ostrich and Springbok (but unfortunately no Rhino) and marvelled at more amazing views. We braved the Bavianskloof pass, a single track, sheer drop drive winding high through yet more mountains which eventually took us back to the coast and the tourist hoards at Jefferies Bay.

And then Garden Route. I had heard it was beautiful but I wasn’t prepared for the quaintness of Storms River, Plettenberg Bay and Knysna. Stunning coastal towns with stylish restaurants and sweeping waterfronts made me vow to one day live in this paradise. Cape Town was soon upon us with the epic Table Mountain dominating the view everywhere we went. We explored the mass tourism of the V & A waterfront, had lunch in the hip Le Med between Camps Bay and Clifton, dipped our feet in the streams at the unmissable Kristenbourg gardens to keep cool, dived with the terrifying Great Whites, ate oysters at Hoad Bay and the best place for sunset is Blouberg strand. Watch the sun go down on the beach with stunning views of Table Mountain, and then join the crowds for some of Cape Towns best Pizza at Blue Peters and curse yourself for this not being your life. Baie Dankie South Africa, it was wonderful.

Oh Vienna....

Oh Vienna....

I had been wanting to visit Vienna for about 15 years so when I realised that I had a spare five days in December I thought hey – Christmas markets, mulled wine and schnitzels…happy days.

What struck me as I got of the plane was cold, cold and bloomin cold, minus 5 in the day and at night, although after 5 or 6 mulled wines it felt like 30c!

We spent most of the days walking around enjoying the many museums Vienna has to offer. A place we absolutely loved was the Belvedere Palace; this is a beautiful Baroque building once the home of Franz Ferdinand and his family. For me the highlight was the original painting of Gustav Klimt the Kiss, such an exquisite painting and it completely lived up to my expectations.

Aside from the museums, Vienna is such a lovely city to stroll around in, many of the buildings are of a Baroque style and some of the architecture just takes your breath away. Add to the mix a couple of stops at the local cafes for a cheeky espresso and Vienna was the perfect winter break.

Word of advice though, try to learn at least a few words in German. Let’s just say some of the food we ordered was quite interesting...

Atlas Mountains, Morocco

Atlas Mountains, Morocco

Having conquered driving in Palermo, I decided I needed a new challenge so my husband and I decided to head for Morocco and a little trip into the Atlas Mountains. Once out of Marrakech, Morocco is a lovely country to drive in, provided you are not in a hurry and you're happy to buy a necklace or some pottery in return for directions!

The Atlas Mountains are beautiful. In November there is a still enough water flowing in the rivers to offer green oases and the changing autumn colours of the trees are a surprise and delight. Days are hot in the sunshine but cold at night. With low light pollution in the village we stayed at above Imlil (the road past the village was only completed six months ago) our evenings were spent star gazing. Our base was Douar Samra, a charming guesthouse offering warm hospitality and delicious home cooking. They booked us a guide, Mohammed, who took us for hikes along the mountain paths and then back to his house for lunch with his family.

It was with reluctance that we headed back to Marrakech for our last couple of nights. We spoiled ourselves with a stay at the Jardins de la Medina, a great garden hideaway located along one of the dusty streets in the kasbah area of the city. We enjoyed delicous fish and chips for dinner at one of the stalls in the main square, a good antidote to all those tagines!

Martinhal Beach Resort, Western Algarve

Martinhal Beach Resort, Western Algarve

I was whisked away for a weekend to the very western point of the Algarve to visit this brand new hotel, Martinhal, and what an enjoyable weekend I had. The hotel opened on in April this year, and from July, most of the rest of the resort will be up and running. The hotel only has just 38 rooms and is perfect for couples, and for families, there is good selection of 2 and 3 bedroom houses as well as some villas with private pools.

The location of the property is spectacular, on a long sandy beach, and close to the small town of Sagres. It is also located in a national park and is less developed than some parts of the Algarve. There are three restaurants, ranging from the fine dining O Terraco, to the more relaxed bistro style Os Gambozinos which has a wood burning pizza oven.

Activities include windsurfing, tennis, body boarding, surf lessons, kite surfing, jeep safari, cycling and a spa for a massage after a surf lesson.

This is a great new property, and appeals to families and couples alike.

Maldives winter break

Maldives winter break

Having always maintained I was not a beach holiday person, this year I threw caution to the wind with a trip to the island resort of Filitheyo in the Maldives. Filitheyo offeres a really great value mid-range holiday; when we stayed in February there was a good mix of ages and nationalities and it had an appealing low-key feel.

I knew that the snorkelling would be good and it lived up to expectations with daily sightings of turtles as well as an ever-changing array of fish in all shapes and sizes which meant we never tired of snorkelling. The visability was so good that the divers we met said they saw little more than we did. One of our highlights was spotting a particularly huge turtle laying her eggs on the beach one night.

Away from the sea, what I hadn’t realised was quite how good the food would be. Meals were served buffet-style but the quality was high with very fresh sushi and sashimi, delicious salads and curries and a particularly convincing selection of international desserts.

We enjoyed an interesting tour of the island, a behind-the-scenes look at how everything functioned from the de-salination plant to the kitchen store cupboard. We also visited a neighbouring island which allowed us a glimpse of what the Maldives is like away from the holiday resorts.

We spent a week at Filitheyo but we could quite easily have stayed for two. I am now definitely a convert to the beach holiday!

Big Birthday to India

Big Birthday to India

Big birthdays can’t be ignored but not wanting to share the pain with my aging peers, I sloped off to southern India in January to revisit Tamil Nadu and Kerala where I had last been spotted, relatively penniless, thirty years before.

Mahabalipuram was hippy no more but that was ok because neither was I, and it wasn’t until we got to Madurai and were visiting the Sree Meenakshi Temple complex dedicated to Shiva, that I began to re-engage with and enjoy the contradictions of sacred and modern, tradition and change that make this the most fascinating country to visit.

For wonderful food and good company, the Kanjirapally Estate in the hills near the Periyar Wildlife Park was the highlight; for contemporary design and a unique ambience for a city hotel, Malabar House in Cochin won the day; but for total relaxation and caring service I would have to return to the Neeleshwar Hermitage on Kerala’s undeveloped northern coast. Might be a while though with Rajasthan and northern India to rediscover as well!

Beautiful Chile

Beautiful Chile

From desert in the north to the rugged beauty of Patagonia in the south and lush forests, rolling vineyards, soaring mountains and smouldering volcanoes in between, Chile offers the traveller an enthralling mix of scenery.

Driving in Chile is a pleasure, the roads are mostly empty, the landscapes you pass are sublime and fellow road users are far more civilised than their Latin neighbours. The Pan American Highway north of Santiago takes you past a coastline which must be reminiscent of how California once looked with sweeps of sandy beaches interspersed with small fishing villages and rocky headlands.

We spent a few days unwinding in the sleepy Elqui Valley, home to the famous pisco grape. This arid region with just a thin strip of irrigated vines either side of the stony river bed, is also renowned for its exceptionally clear skies so we spent our evenings star gazing (and drinking pisco sours).

Further south, the national parks and reserves around Lake Villarica offered fantastic walking country with mountainous forests of monkey puzzle trees and bamboo sheltering hidden lakes shrouded in mist. By travelling in November we had much of this scenery to ourselves as the main tourist season does not start until December.

Vultures and birds of prey seemed as common as pigeons in Chile. As well as admiring the condor as it soared over the Andes, we also enjoyed watching smaller birds such as the Magellanic Woodpecker with its bright red head on a walk near Puerto Natales. The Patagonian scenery did not disappoint either with turquoise lakes and jagged mountain peaks in Torres del Paine National Park.

Buenos Aires, Iguazu Falls and Rio...what a week

Buenos Aires, Iguazu Falls and Rio...what a week

I was lucky enough to be able to go on a "work trip" to South America which visited the sophisticated city of Buenos Aires, the awe inspiring Iguazu Falls and the home of football, Rio. It was only a 6 night trip so a bit of a rush, but what an amazing trip. Starting in Buenos Aires, we embarked on a city tour to cover the highlights, we went to two tango shows, ate at the Orient Express restaurant "La Cabana" and saw various hotels ranging from the classic Alvear to the more modern Park Hyatt to the boutique Legado Mitico and the very trendy Faena.

We were then whisked to the airport for the flight up to Iguazu. I am not sure anything can quite prepare you for the vastness of the Falls, everywhere you looked there was some kind of waterfall. There are various walking trails to see different parts or you could even go on a speed boat trip which takes you as far into the falls as is safe. It was exhilarating.

Return to Venice...

Return to Venice...

Last time I went to Venice with my wife was just before Christmas several years ago and a thick fog covered the canals and lagoons, and Palazzos appeared eerily out of the mist from the number one vaparetto. But dreams of red coated dwarfs from ‘Don’t Look Now’ retreated as the fairy-tale city revealed itself. We raced around the obvious sights, gorging on Titians and Tintorettos and getting lost like everyone else. Returning this October for three blue sky days was a revelation, as we sat over lazy lunches in the Campo Santa  Margherita , and toyed with the tagliolini on a restaurant terrace on the Fondamente  Nove – a just reward for tracking down lesser known canvases by Carpaccio, spectacular ceilings by Tieplo, and Bellini altarpieces in the mornings. Our base at the Ca Nigra Lagoon Resort, in the far reaches of the Santa Croce, right on the Grand lagoon and just a bridge way from the Cannaregio was perfect for the second time visitor, and allowed us to enjoy boat trips to make our scheduled trips to the hotels we wanted to check out on your behalf. You could call it  work I suppose, but it’s always a pleasure to see Gioele and his staff at the lovely Flora, and its rather special little sister, the Novecento. I’ll be treating myself to another dose of this rather expensive enchantment before very long.

Casal dei Fichi, Marche

Casal dei Fichi, Marche

One of the dangers, or should I say pleasures, of being the first people to try out potential new properties for our Italian Portfilio is that my wife and I are often tempted to come back to one of them for our own holidays. It was the combination of Bob and Ian’s hospitality, the large and very comfortable apartments at their restored Marche farmhouse (and the very reasonable cost I have to say), and the views of those patchwork, rolling hills that made it an irresistible choice for a week with family and friends last summer. The weather was perfect, the surrounding hill towns and villages full of cultural surprises and almost empty of tourists, and we discovered inexpensive restaurants where this year’s painful euro exchange rate could be forgotten. The only disaster was my home made pizza – its landing on the lawn hadn’t helped but almost everyone was kind about it. I love out of the way places but they usually come with unrefined accommodation, but here everything has been thought of, from the large beds to the help-yourself kitchen garden, and I was very aware that my hosts are constantly striving to make it the perfect spot for a totally relaxing holiday and I can tell you it works!

Umbria Jazz

Umbria Jazz

I love visiting Umbria at any time of year but I was particularly looking forward to my July sojourn with a visit to the annual jazz festival, held in and around the city of Perugia. For two weeks the historical centre fills with crowds every day who come to listen to the free concerts which go on late into the night. The normal evening passeggiata takes on a new intensity with people of all ages taking to the streets.

I combined my stay in Perugia with a few days exploring Gubbio, a truly wonderful medieval city, and also the delightful little town of Spello often overlooked in favour of its more famous neighbour Assisi. A stay at the beautiful Locanda Palazzone, with dinner on the terrace looking towards the twinkling lights of nearby Orvieto topped off a lovely holiday, the perfect respite from a disappointing British summer!

Periyali Villas, Zakynthos

Periyali Villas, Zakynthos

Having a small child in tow really changes the way you approach holidays.  Long gone are the days where getting up late, lounging by the pool and reading books are the way days are spent.  It’s now about keeping a toddler entertained, whilst grabbing as much rest as possible.

With this in mind, the Periyali Villas work brilliantly.  There are a group of 10 free standing villas, each with their own private pool on the island of Zakynthos.  They also share a larger pool where other children will (hopefully) entertain yours, and have a handful of restaurants and a beautiful beach within walking distance.  Basically, everything your discerning child needs.

There are also crèche facilities available as required, where your child will be whisked away, and looked after for a couple of hours here and there.  This allowed us to get back to the lounging and reading side of things, without needing to head off to find the mysteriously vanished teddy bear every 10 minutes.  The facilities are also open a couple of evenings each week, enabling you to head to one of the local tavernas, or the excellent fish restaurant at the end of the road.

Sicily at Easter

Sicily at Easter

They say the light in Syracuse is like nowhere else in its sharp clarity and after a S.A.D. winter, the chance to visit and explore the south-eastern corner of Sicily and its principal attraction, once one of the most important cities of the western world, Syracuse, was the perfect excuse. Exploring the narrow lanes of Ortygia Island with numerous buildings telling the story of the city’s architectural development over a thousand years and more, checking out its old fashioned street market, and the highlight of an evening in the baroque Piazza del Duomo, lit up as in some magical, operatic setting, was a perfect antidote to those winter blues. 

Disappointingly the city’s famous catacombs were temporarily closed but we were headed for the wonderful Greek theatre and the neighbouring Roman amphitheatre anyway, bringing back stories of battles between the two worlds left by a classical education. Actually the real highlight was having a splendid breakfast at our stylish, B&B Palazzo, L’Approdo delle Sirene, where the wonderful view over the harbour was only topped by the attention and care guests receive from the owners, Friedrich and his mother Fiora. While a waterfront Palazzo is going to satisfy most of you, I know that the comforts and facilities of a full service hotel will be preferred by others, and after visiting every four and five star hotel on Ortygia island, the recently opened, stylish and charming Agila, set back from the waterfont, with its 30 rooms revealing a clever mix of older furniture and tasteful modern décor, emerged as the clear winner.

Then it was on to Noto, Modica, and Ragusa, but that’s another story …..

Rainforest, Reef and Wildlife in Borneo

Rainforest, Reef and Wildlife in Borneo

Borneo was a destination I had wanted to visit for many years and my trip there is February more than lived up to expectations. The holiday was full of amazing contrasts, the awe-inspiring Mt Kinabalu with its jagged peak, the tropical paradise of Lankayan Island and the amazing wildlife viewing on the Kinabatangan River.

The highlight without doubt was spotting an orang utan and her baby in their nest early one morning on a forest walk next to the Kinabatangan. This narrow corridor of rainforest is fast being developed into more profitable palm oil plantations so tourism is very important for maintaining this very ecologically diverse area. As well as orang utans, the other main draw in this region is the very ugly but very entertaining proboscis monkey. Added to this were various snakes, monitor lizards and wonderful birds such as hornbills and kingfishers. We missed the pigmy elephants by one day… I guess this means I’ll have to go back!

Half term to India

Half term to India

This February half term, Oli and I took the boys for their first trip to India. Having travelled together and independently many times, it was time to prove to ourselves and everyone else that India is a brilliant destination for families. Oscar and Dylan, two boys who are normally glued to their DS's and are 11 and 9 had a fantastic time. They rode camels through dusty country lanes to an abandoned fort, visited vibrant and colourful temples, explored a saddhu’s cave dwellings, ate fabulous Indian food, took an overnight sleeper train and had their cheeks pinched on several occasions by curious locals whilst wandering around the Taj Mahal. The highlight for me was seeing the look of awe and amazement of their faces when, on elephant back, they spotted their first tiger in the wild at Bandhavgarh National Park. How priviliged they were to experience this at their age - it took me 5 years to see my first tiger - and on their first visit they struck lucky! A remarkable memory which will stay with them for the rest of their lives. Kids are remarkably adaptable and this holiday proved that India is a fabulous destination for families – there’s just too much to stimulate and excite them for boredom to ever creep in! 10 out 10 from all four of us!

Road trip through Europe

Road trip through Europe

Early September is a great time to visit the Mediterranean when there is a bit more space on the beach and the restaurants are quieter. I opted for the scenic route and drove from London to Croatia which allowed for some wonderful drives through the Alps and some great swimming in the lakes of Austra and Slovenia as well as a very enjoyable day in the picturesque city of Ljubljana.

Northern Croatia was great fun with its seemingly barren islands hiding little Romanesque villages and rocky coves with inviting turqoise waters. Moving south, Split exceeded my expectations not only with the remarkable Diocletian's Palace but also with its chic waterfront cafe society. 

I took an overnight ferry from Split to Ancona with half of Italy and their dogs on board, not a trip I would recommend. My drive back through Italy became something of a gastronomic tour of the country, highlights including veal-stuffed olives in Ascoli Piceno and delicious sausages in Norica, washed down with some very good local wine. Further north, after a few days on the over rated Ligurian coast, exploring the Piedmonte region with its sleepy vineyard packed hills was a great antidote with lunch in the village of Barolo a real treat. 

Weekend escape to Le Marche

Weekend escape to Le Marche

If you like your Italian fix free from other British tourists even in the height of summer, then Urbino and the surrounding Marche countryside provide the perfect destination. Short of time, I took an early flight from Stansted to Forli and then a rather indirect route south from there along empty winding roads, stopping en route at a few sleepy hilltop towns, down to the little haven of Il Biroccio for a two night stay. Owned and run by hospitable hosts, Gianni and Antonella, this little country hotel with just 4 rooms and 4 apartments and beautiful views is a great weekend escape.

Just 20 minutes from Il Biroccio, the town of Urbino was a charming place to spend a day; I felt slightly out of place with my camera as everyone else appeared to be a local even though the town is an important centre for Renaissance art and architecture. Dinner of strozzapreti pasta (“priest chokers”) followed by steak in truffle sauce was a particularly enjoyable experience at one of the lovely restaurants in the centre of town. The following day I managed a quick visit to Rimini to see what all the fuss is about, rather full of Italians topping up their tans, it is a fun place to people watch for a couple of hours; however, further south the smaller town of Fano is a lot quieter for an evening’s passeggiata after a refreshing dip in the sea.

In search of the "real" Greece....

In search of the "real" Greece....

Forced to take an overnight flight to Thessaloniki I was hesitant about my brief sojourn to the Pelion. However I can confidently report that the boss’s belief that this unspoilt peninsula on the Greek mainland constitutes the real Greece is well founded.

Its relative inaccessibility (overnight flights are not compulsory) helps to keep this mountainous area, with its fantastic beaches and beautiful hilltop villages, so special ensuring authenticity and giving you that elusive feeling that you have discovered the unknown.

Arriving blurry eyed, with the sun emerging over the dramatic peak of Mt Tiseo, I enjoyed observing the local taverna owners haggling for the days catch from the local fisherman before checking into, Diplomats, where Real Holidays have been sending clients to for years.

Days were spent exploring this fabulous area and its many sandy beaches. The highlight of my trip being the drive to the remote, car free island of Trikeri off the peninsula’s southern tip. This was possibly due to the never ending series of enticing bays that we passed on the way, or the crystal clear water demanding that I take a dip, but more likely it is down to the most incredible seafood lunch at one of the two harbour side tavernas. The actual name escapes me but I can let you in on its location should you find yourself with a ‘real’ holiday to this special part of the Greek mainland.

Mozambique and South Africa Honeymoon

Mozambique and South Africa Honeymoon

Having never set foot on the African continent I thought it was about time I remedied this and decided that a honeymoon was the perfect opportunity.

Our first destination was Benguerra Island, off the coast of Mozambique, and, despite the long journey from London, coming in to land on the tiny grass airstrip surrounded by white sand beaches and turquoise sea was a memorable way to start our trip.  Apart from the odd snorkelling trip we spent the next 6 days gazing out at the view from our beach front cabana with occasional forays to the restaurant to eat the fantastic seafood. Given a room that seemed bigger than our London flat, with its own plunge pool, magnificent outside bathroom and a butler to make sure you don’t want for anything, we felt very spoilt, and decadent, but reminded ourselves it was our honeymoon and loved every minute of it!  

It would be impossible to go to Africa for the first time and not do a safari so from Mozambique we flew to South Africa and were whisked to Vuyatela Lodge which is one of 3 properties that make up the Djuma Game Reserve. Vuyatela is a small luxury lodge in the Sabi Sand area of the Kruger National Park and the game viewing was superb. In 3 days we ticked off the big five but the highlight has to be following a cheetah and her cub as they searched for their next meal.

From here we flew on to Cape Town and, despite being winter, we enjoyed a few days in the winelands where it felt like we were permanently eating and drinking but still found the time to visit the city, climb Table Mountain and drive through some of the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen.

A visit to Puglia

A visit to Puglia

Second time round for my wife and I when we returned to Puglia early this summer, and I think I got the point this time. It isn’t immediately tourist friendly, and its white hill top towns often overlook a combination of those silly trulli and scruffy biochemical plants.  What it offers is reliable sunshine, a fertile and unkempt countryside which ranges from the beaches and hills around, and inland, from Fasano, to the scenic desolation of the flat Salentine Peninsular. Staying in the friendly and unpretentious Borgo San Marco in the former, and the stylish and serene Masseria Montelauro in the latter, have put these two into that category of where I want to send my friends. And athough already familiar with the Masseria Torre Coccaro’s five star qualities and spa, I was very taken with its more discreet sister, the Torre Maizza, and that feeling of the rich and famous hiding from Grazia. Back to catch up on the history next time I promise.

Honeymoon to Mexico

Honeymoon to Mexico

I've always wanted to go to Mexico, and I was lucky enough to go on a brief work trip in 2006 and then when we were deciding on where to go for our honeymoon, Mexico was the perfect choice. It has a great combination of historical sights, beaches and cities. We flew into Mexico City and then headed straight to Merida, the capital of the Yucatan. We had three nights there, just enough time to explore this fascinating city and go on a day trip to Uxmal, a spectacular Mayan ruin. We were then transferred to Chichen Itza, and then to the beautiful coast on Tulum, south of Cancun. Powder white sand, clear blue sea, very relaxing. After six days of peaceful bliss, we then flew back to Mexico City for a final three days of excitement. What a city, so many things to do and so many different and contrasting areas. A must see is obviously the Anthropology Museum, a whole day could be spent here and you still won't have seen it all. We also visited the Zocalo Square, the main square in the old part of the city. We happened to go there when there was some political rally on which was quite exciting, I've never seen so many people in one square before! After a bit of shopping in local markets, it was back to the airport for our flight back home, and back to work.....

Travel Agency boss confesses to never having visited New York...........

Travel Agency boss confesses to never having visited New York...........

until February. A particularly good offer in World Traveller Plus from BA, a visit from the sales and marketing manager of the Shoreham Hotel on West 44th St, and a wife demanding a Woody Allen wintery NYC got me there at last. In 48 hours we did the MoMA and the Frick, Top of the Rock and Staten Island, Lower East Side (with a visit to the Tenement Museum) and Little Italy for pizza, followed Dylan’s folk footsteps down Bleeker Street to the Village, ate chowder at the Oyster Bar in Grand Central Terminal and drank Margaritas with Mexican food in Upper Midtown, hit the pavement and mastered the Subway, strolled in the Sunday snow in Central Park and froze on Brooklyn Bridge and.....heh the New York amphetamine rush is beginning to wear off. I’ll just have to go back for more.

St Lucia and Discovery at Marigot Bay

St Lucia and Discovery at Marigot Bay

Discovery at Marigot Bay and St Lucia in general is the perfect Caribbean retreat for those wanting a bit more than the average beach holiday. Situated in what has been described as the most beautiful bay in the Caribbean (I plan to do some research over the next few years to check this is true), the hotel and the immediate area has much to keep you occupied.

Some people might be put off by the lack of direct beach access but with the hotel’s complimentary speed boat offering half day trips to numerous beaches along the coast this needn’t be a drawback. The boat is a great way to see the volcanic pitons which are best viewed from the sea and is much quicker than navigating the island’s hairpin bends. The hotel also has a complimentary ferry service which takes guests to the various restaurants in the bay and also to its small beach where dingys and kayaks can be hired.

For those with young children, there is a crèche service at certain times of year as well as a kids’ pool and the hotel benefits from a number of one and two bedroom suites which are extremely spacious. If you feel the need to use the kitchen in your suite (this can be tricky given the choice of eateries), there is a great market in Castries, the island’s capital, where you can buy some delicious freshly caught fish. Otherwise, if the idea of cooking doesn’t appeal, the nearby “Friday Fish Fry” in Anse Le Rey feels almost like an authentic street party with locals and tourists all sitting together eating the catch of the day.

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