Everyone returns to Sicily because there is too much history, too much culture, too much of a contrast between beauty and post war development, to take in on one visit. The succession of invaders have all left their mark, whether it's for you as a sightseer or arguably the best and spiciest food in Italy. Romantic Taormina makes a good base for experiencing many of these highlights and Lipari gives you the chance to spend a few days in a charming port and to visit the other Aeolian Islands. Palermo has to be the most exciting and atmospheric city in Italy - ok it's a close call with Naples but we prefer Palermo. It is also the gateway to western Sicily with its distinct landscape and culture, and a coast of great beaches and congenial port towns.