Real Holidays' Louise goes walkabout in Mallorca’s Tramuntana Mountains.
Having had enough of the recent soggy weather, I decided to take myself to Mallorca for a touch of vitamin sun and a spot of early-season walking in the beautiful Tramuntana Mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage Site which rises up from the island’s western side.
I was staying close to the small village of Déia, an artist’s retreat in the foothills which was once home to the poet Robert Graves. It’s a stunning setting, and the starting point for a series of excellent self-guided walks, of which I’d selected the seven-kilometre Cami de Castello route towards the picturesque town of Soller. My plan was to then take the historic tram onward to the beaches of Puerto Soller.
After a hearty breakfast, I set off. As soon as I leave the village, the trail climbs quickly uphill by a series of stone steps. The easy to follow path takes me through orchards, terraces and olive groves, and past donkeys and sheep grazing in the fields. As I continue, there are wonderful views through the trees to the sea below. About half way along the trail, I come to possibly the most idyllically placed cafe I’ve ever come across. Pausing to rest, I enjoy coffee and freshly baked cake out on the terrace which overlooks the entire valley. Luckily I had cash on me, as I’d have been very disappointed with their no credit card policy otherwise.
The next part of the trail proves to be a little easier, passing through orange and lemon groves with plenty of colourful flowers and birdlife. Eventually the path winds its way downhill towards Soller, which is a delightful town set between the mountains and the sea. I stop for an ice cream in the baroque town square then wander the botanical gardens in the afternoon sun.
It’s a two-minute stroll from the main square to the tram stop. I climb aboard the rickety vehicle, opting to stand outside on the balcony for the 15-minute ride to the coast. A small port town, Puerto Soller is home to some lovely white sand beaches as well as a good selection of waterfront restaurants. Satisfied with my day’s adventures, I pick a spot to enjoy a well-earned drink while watching the small boats and yachts coming in and out the harbour.
I decide against returning to the hotel on foot, electing to take a taxi back to my hotel instead. After all, I need to save some energy for the next day’s walk.
Louise stayed at Belmond La Residencia, a luxury hideaway close to Déia set amid citrus-scented gardens. Prices start from £1,350 per person for a 5-night stay including flights and transfers. Travel in May or early October to receive a complimentary night.
Call 0207 359 3938 or contact us for more details.