Discover the lesser-seen stars of Greece’s most celebrated island group.
We love a holiday that starts at a bustling port, and there’s something rather special about heading to an island that is only accessible by sea.
The Cyclades offer just this, and the lack of direct flights mean the islands retain their sleepy, authentic feel with little of the price-elevating that occurs on flashier neighbours Santorini or Mykonos. It’s possible to hop from one island to another giving you a peaceful passage around the lesser-seen Cyclades, where charming hotels await, rural life remains unchanged for centuries and dazzling beaches are devoid of tourists.
- Slipping into Cycladic life on an island-hopping adventure
- Celebrating Sifnos’s culinary heritage as you trot between tavernas
- Hopping between hot springs and limpid blue bays on geothermal Milos
- Watching the sunset from the clifftop church Panagia on far-flung Folegandros
- Sampling local liqueurs then snoozing in the sun on Naxos’s beautiful beaches
It’s easy to follow the well-trodden route through the Cyclades from Mykonos to Santorini. But with simplicity comes crowds, cruise ships and some hefty price tags. This 15-day island-hopping trip takes in some of the smaller, quieter islands of the Cyclades, where rural life has changed little in centuries, and dazzling beaches are devoid of tourists.
Day 1-4
Sifnos
Travel by ferry from Piraeus in Athens to Sifnos, whose three whitewashed villages sit like pearls along the crest of the island. Olive groves, almond trees, oleander and fresh herbs flank the slopes of the central mountains, and every evening the sun sinks into the Aegean to reveal a panoply of stars in the clear night skies above.
As serene as Sifnos is, it’s not actually the scenery that steals the show here, but rather the food. Nicholas Tselementes was born here. He wrote the first Greek cookbook in 1910 and Sifnos has been a mecca for Greek manna ever since. From traditional tavernas to celebrity-chef restaurants, eating out on Sifnos is always a delight.
Stay
Verina Astra
Soak up the sensational seascapes from your private terrace at Verina Astra, a secluded clifftop residence with just seven suites. Although less than a mile from Artemonas, the prettiest of Sifnos’ whitewashed villages, all you’ll hear here are the jangling of goat bells, the thrum of cicadas and the whistling of the wind.
Stay
Phos Milos
Just steps from the beach that sits in front of the fishing village of Pollonia, Phos Milos is a vision in white, a modern and minimalist take on Greek architecture which imbues its collection of suites and rooms. The suites in particular are spacious and flooded with light, benefiting from COCO-MAT sleep products and cooling plunge pools.
Day 9-11
Folegandros
Now’s the time to take slow-lane living down a further notch. Beautifully unspoilt Folegandros is tiny – just eight miles long, with a couple of hundred inhabitants who share the island with rambling, bell-chiming goats. From the clifftop capital Hora, easily one of the most appealing villages in the Cyclades, zigzagging steps lead up to the island’s only real landmark, the looming Panagia church – go at sunset or sunrise for some incredible photo backdrops.
Several beaches are serviced by water taxis, while others can be reached by a scramble down rocky footpaths. Don’t expect sand and sunbeds though; think pretty pebbled coves and limpid blue water that cries out to be swum in.
Stay
Anemi
Anemi’s 44 white-sugar-cube suites are a study in minimalist architecture, the bright whiteness of the bedrooms offset only by the largescale modern artworks used as headboards. All have verandas, some have private pools, and all channel the eye towards the heart-stopping views over Karavostasis Bay. And after the island’s cliffs and beaches have inevitably drawn you out, Anemi’s amazing restaurant will just as surely draw you back.
Stay
18 Grapes
Enjoy a warm welcome at chic, boutique hotel 18 Grapes, a 20-minute drive from Naxos town. With just 18 rooms, this family-run hotel has a laid-back ambience with a pool, spa and rooftop garden adding to its appeal. The hotel also has its own vineyard and tasting room which you can tour with one of the team, learning about Naxos’ thousand-year-old wine history.
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